They are up at the crack of dawn making Nyonya kuihs (cakes made by the Straits-born Peranakan Chinese) which are so fine and delectable. Located along the hard-to-park Burma Road, there is also mercifully a backdoor entrance to Li Er Cafe which fronts (!) the Pulau Tikus Market. An open kitchen offers visitors a first-hand look at how some of their childhood favourite eats are prepared.

Deep-fried Chinese crullers (Yu Char Kway or You Tiao) are being pressed and prepared from fresh dough for take-aways.

While my picks for the day were the Kuih Kosui (steamed in Chinese tea cups and rolled in desicated coconut) and Kuih Talam (twin-layered and also steamed in green and white),  the aromatic sambal ikan bilis which is served with the iconic Nasi Lemak, assails the senses and can go on record as having proven its weight in gold previously.